Roadside planters and imigongo

Town planters in eastern Rwanda/enclos*ure

While traveling in southeastern Rwanda on Thursday, we stopped for lunch in Nyakarambi.  I liked the town’s roadside planters, which are painted in the graphic patterns of imigongo art.

Town planters in eastern Rwanda/enclos*ure

All the planters held rather dusty palm trees. We are in the middle of the long dry season, which will last until early September.

Imigongo paintings traditionally decorated the interiors of houses in this part of Rwanda. The raised designs are made with cow dung and painted with white kaolin clay and a black substance made from aloe plant sap and the ash of burned banana skins and Solanum aculeastrum fruit.  Other natural colors — red, grey, and ochre — are also used, and today’s artists often add representations of people and houses.

Nyakarambi has a cooperative and shop devoted to imigongo.  I added to my little collection with the piece below, which is about 12″ x 14″.

Imigongo painting, Rwanda/enclos*ure

I didn’t take any photos of the cooperative while we were there; the women weren’t working and their stock of paintings was small. But, several months ago, we were at Nyungwe Forest Lodge, which has several walls in the lobby displaying imigongo.

Imigongo at Nyungwe Forest Lodge, Rwanda:enclos*ure

Imigongo on walls at Nyungwe Forest Lodge, Rwanda:enclos*urePhoto just above by M. Koran.

A far corner in Rwanda

The Rwanda-Tanzania border area, Rwanda:enclos*ure

If you imagine the shape of Rwanda as a rough square, as of Thursday I have been to three of its four corners: northwest, southwest, and now southeast.

Above is a view of the Rwanda/Tanzania border at Rusumo Falls. Tanzania is on the left side; Rwanda is on the right.

A one-lane bridge crosses the Akagera River — a natural line between the two countries at this corner.

The bridge at Rusumo Falls, Rwanda:enclos*ure

A second bridge is now being built just in front of the current span, with Japanese assistance.

The large empty area in the left top corner of the photo above is a parking area (under construction) for the many trucks that cross the border daily.

Just behind the bridge are the Falls.
Rusumo Falls, Rwanda:enclos*ureThe photo above and the two below were taken from the two sides of the bridge.

During the genocide in 1994, “an estimated 500,000 Rwandans — half of them within one 24-hour period” fled across this border to Tanzania, according to my guide book.*

Journalists standing on the bridge and looking down at the rushing water, counted the bodies of genocide victims “at a rate of one or two per minute.”

Shadow of the bridge at Rusumo Falls, Rwanda:enclos*ure

I took the very  first photo above from the top of the hill in the center of the picture below.

Hills above Rusumo Falls, Rwanda:enclos*ure


*Rwanda, The Bradt Travel Guide, by Philip Briggs and Janice Booth.

K Street in 1850

K St. backyards, Washington, DC, Library of Congress/enclos*ureView from the second story of the home of Mrs. John Rodgers at Franklin Row, K Street, N.W., between 12th and 13th Streets, in Washington, D.C.

The watercolor* depicts the backyard and adjacent neighborhood and shows children standing on balconies.

It was painted by Montgomery C. Meigs.  Mrs. Rodgers was Meigs’s mother-in-law and the widow of Commodore John Rogers, a naval hero.

Despite the modest appearance of the yard and surroundings, Mrs. Rodgers was wealthy and socially well-connected.   Even well-to-do Washington in the 1850s seems to have had a somewhat ramshackle look.

You will need to click on the image to get a larger view.  Here’s what the downtown city block looks like now.

As a military engineer, Meigs left his mark on the capital.  In the 1850s, he supervised the building of the Washington Aqueduct and the Union Arch Bridge, as well as the wings and dome of the Capitol Building.  He also played an important role in the early design of Arlington National Cemetery, and he designed and supervised the construction of the Pension Building (now the National Building Museum).


*Via Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division.

A study in steps: Sacromonte

His wandering step
Obedient to high Thoughts, has visited
The awful ruins of old. . .

— Percy Bysshe Shelley, “Alastor

Steps and shrines of Sacramonte, late 1800s, William Henry Jackson, Library of Congress/enclos*ure

Stairway and shrines of Sacromonte, near Amecameca, Mexico, ca. 1880-1897, by William Henry Jackson, via Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division.

Vintage landscape: Washington Monument, Baltimore, Md.

Great Washington, too, stands high aloft on his towering main-mast in Baltimore, and like one of Hercules’ pillars, his column marks that point of human grandeur beyond which few mortals will go.

— Herman Melville, Chapter XXXV, Moby Dick

Washington Monument, Baltimore, early 19th c., Library of Congress/enclos*ureAbove: Baltimore’s Washington Monument under construction in 1828 (looking north).  A watercolor, ink, and graphite drawing by John Rubens Smith, via the Library of Congress.*

Completed in 1829, the monument was the second one erected to honor George Washington.  (A tower in Boonsboro, Md., was finished first, in 1827.)

The land for the 178′ tower and its surrounding park had been donated by John Eager Howard from part of his estate, Belvidere.  In the late 18th century, Belvidere was often praised for its fine high views, and the monument was originally visible from ships entering the harbor (today, 10 city blocks to the south).

1796 George Beck Baltimore from Howard Park, Maryland Historical Society. Above: Detail of “The View of Baltimore from Governor John Eager Howard’s Garden Park,” 1796, via the Maryland Historical Society and Early American Gardens.

19th c. Washington Monument, Baltimore, Library of Congress/enclos*ureAbove: In 1849, artist unknown.

During the next twenty years, four small squares, one in each direction, were laid out around the monument.  They were originally planted with grass and surrounded by iron fences.  The well-to-do built homes, churches, and cultural institutions around the squares, which became known collectively as Mount Vernon Place.

“It [was] one of the first examples in the United States of a deliberate use of city planning to create a dramatic setting for an existing monument,” according to the Trust for Architectural Easements.

Washington Monument, Baltimore, 1900, Md. Historical Society/enclos*ureAbove: Mount Vernon Place, east side, 1900, photographer unknown.

Mount Vernon Place has undergone several design and planting changes since about 1850, according to the Mount Vernon Place Conservancy.  The photo above and those below show the 1875-76 paths and stone walls of Frederick Law Olmsted’s firm.

early 20th c. Washington Monument, Baltimore, Library of Congress/enclos*ureAbove:  The south side, ca. 1902, by William Henry Jackson (Detroit Publishing Co.). early 20th c. Washington Monument, Baltimore, Library of Congress/enclos*ureAbove: Mt. Vernon Place, north and east sides, ca. 1903, by William Henry Jackson (Detroit Publishing Co.).

early 20th c. Washington Monument, Baltimore, Library of Congress/enclos*ureAbove: Looking north, ca. 1920-1930, photographer unknown.

This last photo shows the work of Thomas Hastings of the architecture firm of Carrère and Hastings.  In 1917, he redesigned the squares in the Beaux-Art style.  According to the Mount Vernon Place Conservancy:

[His] design was an exemplar of City Beautiful-inspired architectural and landscape design, which called for symmetry, uniformity and axiality.

Hastings utilized white marble to harmonize his new work with the existing monument, and retained the tradition in the east, west and north squares of matched trees framing the squares. After his hardscape work was completed, the trees in all of these squares were replanted to ensure they would mature uniformly, creating and maintaining a crisp border on their edges. Hastings supported this wholesale replanting as necessary for the future integrity of his design.

In the south square, however, he retained some of the existing large trees and shrubs to frame out a newly positioned statue of Lafayette.

It used to be possible go inside the monument and climb to the top.  I did it about 12 years ago.  There are 228 very claustrophobic steps.  The structure has not been open to the public for the last three years, however.


*All the images here are via the Library of Congress Prints and Photos Division, except the third, fourth, and last, which are via the Maryland Historical Society.