The way we live (green) now in Rwanda

This Kigali pharmacy has taken the city regulation for flower pots to heart -- with clipped weeping figs in the ground and then more pots behind them.
This Kigali pharmacy has taken the flower pots requirement to heart — with clipped weeping figs in the ground and then more pots behind them.

The city of Kigali has a requirement that all shops must have flower pots at their entrances.  I learned this yesterday from our local newspaper, The New Times.

According to the article “Kigali City residents bemoan KCC* policies,”

[a business owner,] who deals in hardware business, . . . especially criticized the policy of flower pots at the front of every shop. All shops are supposed to have flower pots in front of them, a policy that was established in 2011.

“We are struggling with paying taxes which are high on top of that they are asking us to buy flower pots which cost between Rwf 15,000 to 20,000. Not all of us love flowers,” he said. “Every time I see these flower pots in front of my shop, I feel like it’s making my shop ugly because I would prefer something more artistic other than a flower pot but then I also can’t have two decorations at my door.” . . .

Last week, during an inspection, a few shops were locked up because of not having flower pots outside their shops.

I don’t know how many or what size pots are required.  Rwf 15,000 is about US$24.

Back on  January 19, I was also diverted by the article “Eleven arrested smuggling plastic bags:”

The police have  arrested 10 Burundians and a Rwandan found smuggling 400 cartons of plastic paper bags and marijuana into the country.

The suspects were arrested in Kibungo town. They were travelling by bus heading to Kigali, from Kirehe district.

Police said the suspects had smuggled the goods through one of the most notorious entry points on the Burundi and Rwanda border in Gahara sector.

Rwanda banned disposable plastic bags in 2005. The ban was effected in three years later. However, Rwanda, which replaced the menacing bags with paper bags, is the only country of the five EAC member states with effective policy on plastic bags.

The initiative was a response to the plastic’s negative environmental impact, amid extensive physical presence of bags across the country.

Supt. Benoit Nsengiyumva, the Eastern Province Police spokesman, said the suspects would be charged as soon as investigations are complete.

“Rwanda is now entering its fourth year with a nationwide ban on all plastic bags. This is what we are guarding; as Police and we won’t rest,” he said.

Nsengiyumva said the suspects would also be charged with illegal entrance into the country and trafficking in marijuana, an illegal drug.

Note which crime is emphasized in the article.

Rwanda takes its restriction of plastic very seriously.  Passengers arriving on international flights are warned to leave behind their duty-free store bags, and once, returning from Pretoria, I had to pull off all the security plastic wrap from my suitcase before I could exit the baggage area.

While I could go either way about storefront potted plants, I do like this plastic bag prohibition.  I remember how the last place we lived in Africa — Niamey, Niger — was just inundated by this particularly obnoxious form of trash.  The bags are such a plague on the continent that a common joke is to refer to them as the national bird, seen nesting in the trees and fields.

But they are extinct in Rwanda.

.   .   .  And behold,
the plastic bag is magic;
there is no closing it. . . . .

William Matthews, from “The Waste Carpet


*Kigali City Council

Plant supports

I just wanted to show off the plant supports that a local craftsperson recently made for the garden from my “design.”   They’re cut and bent from lightweight rebar, and he gave me two sizes — about 30″ and 5′.

Two plant supports in foreground, back to back.
Two plant supports in foreground, back to back.

I can tie plants directly on to them, or I can slip bamboo poles through the loops to make a supporting grid.  They’re much easier to push into the ground than bamboo or wooden poles, and they should last pretty much forever.

Plant supports and bamboo grid -- with my sorry looking tomatoes.
Plant supports and bamboo grid — with my sorry-looking tomatoes.

Painted reddish-brown (more brown than they look in the photos), they’re unobtrusive in the flower beds.  But I think they would also be fun in really bright colors.

plant supports 3

Nice things and Nyungwe Forest Lodge

I urge you to please notice when you are happy, and exclaim or murmur or think at some point, “If this isn’t nice, I don’t know what is.”

— Kurt Vonnegut

Our oldest daughter has been visiting us — which is very nice — so this weekend, we took her to see the Nyungwe Forest in the south of Rwanda and to stay at the beautiful Nyungwe Forest Lodge.

Nyungwe Forest Lodge, enclos*ure
Orchids and tea bushes in front of the cabins at Nyungwe Forest Lodge.

The Lodge is located on the western edge of the Nyungwe National Park in a tea plantation picked by a local cooperative. The cabins front to the tea fields and their back windows look out on the forest.

Nyungwe Forest Lodge, enclos*ure
Rainchains in action on the main dining and lounge building at the Lodge.

The area is currently having clear blue mornings and rainy afternoons. On Saturday, our one full day there, we hiked the canopy walk before lunch (more on that later this week). Then we actually talked about going on another hike that afternoon.

rainchains, closeup

However, with the first raindrops, we gave in to the luxury of just parking ourselves in front of the many picture windows looking out on the gorgeous view and napping and reading until the 5:00 p.m. tea, cookies, and cocktails in front of a fire.

Lodge, interior, windows

Lounge at Nyungwe Forest Lodge, enclos*ure
The lounge at the Lodge. Photo by Mary Koran.

Lounge at Nyungwe Forest Lodge, enclos*ure

Just before tea time, we were rewarded for our indolence by finding about a dozen blue monkeys in the trees right outside our cabin’s back patios.

Blue monkey at Nyungwe Forest Lodge, enclos*ure
A blue monkey (Cercopithecus mitts) about to jump from cabin roof to the trees. Photo by Mary Koran.

I wanted to show you these side tables in the main lounge, which I loved.

side table

Unfortunately, I forgot to ask if they were locally made or imported — next time.

sidetable 2

The big chandelier was appropriately made of tea strainers.

chandelier, full

Chandelier, detail

chandelier 2, detail

Camellia sinensis leaves have little or no smell (only if you crush them hard) until they are processed as tea. But the hotel smelled very lightly of green tea fragrance from the soap and hand lotion in the bathrooms and gift shop. So, sitting on the terrace or in the main lounge looking out, I could smell what I thought the fields should smell like (but really don’t). I thought this was an interesting little manipulation of experience in a landscape.

My daughter brought me a Kindle Fire e-reader, another really nice thing, which allowed me to spend the afternoon switching from Vogue, to the third book of the Game of Thrones series, to Hilary Mantel’s Bring Up the Bodies.

I’ve written about Nyungwe Forest Lodge previously here.

Beautiful Rwanda

The link to this video clip was sent to me with the note:  “What a beautiful country we are living in!”

I think you will agree.

RWANDA from MAMMOTH on Vimeo.

The film stops for just a moment at about 4 minutes.  Stay with it to see some wonderful footage of mountain gorillas.

A study in steps: northern Rwanda village

steps, steps

These are the front “steps” from the road to someone’s home in a village near the Virunga Safari Lodge in northern Rwanda. (We spent a night at the Lodge earlier this month.)

They are steeper than they look in the picture.

The little house at the top of the hill would look like the one below; I took this photo along the same stretch of road.

steps, local house

We had hiked down the hill from the hotel along a series of narrow and slippery paths.

steps, hill to road

Also steeper than it looks here.

steps, farms below

Below are my husband and our guide starting back up the hill. A moment later, as we were sliding and leaning on our sticks, we were passed by a young women with a baby on her back. She was wearing flip-flops and carrying what I can only describe as a yule log on her head. She was soon out of sight.

steps, trail