In a vase on Monday: Paris

Rosebud in Paris, 2016, enclos*ure
Passing by the windows of Rosebud Fleuristes, 4, Place de l’Odéon, Paris. In the vase are lupin, viburnum, and hydrangea flowers.

We spent the long holiday weekend in Paris, just getting back this afternoon — so I don’t have a flower arrangement of my own today. But I can offer a few pictures of the windows of two florists in the area north of the Luxembourg Garden: Rosebud and Stanislaus Draber.

Rosebud, Paris, 2016, enclos*ure
Foxtail lilies and viburnum flowers at Rosebud, which was mentioned in the Paris-Match article as having been created with “a concept of florist-art gallery” (à l’origine d’un concept de fleuriste-galerie d’art).

On the train to France, I read an article in Paris-Match magazine, “La Fleur Fait Sa Révolution!”

“The flower has become a symbol of an urban renaissance, creative and super-cool,” it said. “One talks flowers with the same appetite that characterizes the foodistas for cooking. The opening of peonies, the Japanese [pruning] knife, and the art of the bouquet are now at the heart of urban conversations.” The trend is “embodied by the explosion of the neo-artisans who are also called the ‘makers’ (les «makers»).”

The article also mentions that the flower-market gardens around Paris “have almost disappeared in favor of the industrialized Dutch market. If nothing is done within ten years, there will be no bouquets of real scented garden roses for the high fashion Parisian florists.”

In a vase on Monday, Paris window, May 30, 2016, enclos*ure
Peonies, roses, and sweet peas in the window of Stanislas Draber, 19, rue Racine, Paris.

To see what other gardeners/bloggers/makers have put in vases today, please visit Cathy at Rambling in the Garden. She hosts this Monday meme.

ADDENDUM: There’s an interesting video clip by Rick Steves of a giant Dutch commercial flower auction here.

La Vallée Suisse, Paris

The plants have taken over. The gardener has gone home.
— Gregory Ross, from Hidden Parks of Paris

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The verdant, sunken Garden of the Swiss Valley is a true “hidden garden” of Paris. Unless you know to look for the little green gate just past the very large and silly memorial, “The Dream of the Poet,” on Avenue Franklin D. Roosevelt, you will walk right by it on your way to the Seine.

But if you do know to stop and then enter the gate, you’ll descend over a dozen faux bois steps to a “stone” arch (also constructed of concrete, as are all the other stones in the garden).

Stepping through the archway, you’ll cross an artificial pond fed by the Seine (and reputedly inhabited by carp) and look down the single path of the long narrow space. Mature trees, shrubs, and perennials cover and obscure the valley walls; some dip into the water, including a 100-year-old weeping beech.

Elaine Sciolino, writing in the The New York Times, called this garden “a tiny stage-set.” With its fake rock and old-fashioned common garden plants,* it is not really “naturalistic,” yet is like a little wilderness — its arrangement seemingly having moved beyond planting design and maintenance.

When I visited it one morning in early September, a slight haze of dust and seasonal decay hung in the air. The only other person there was a homeless man sound asleep on one of the benches, and I tried not to bother him as I walked back and forth taking pictures.

At one end of the path, a faux bois pedestrian footbridge crosses overhead. At the other, green doors signal the entrance to a Climespace plant, which — 30 meters further underground — cools the surrounding buildings with circulating chilled water.

The Swiss Valley is one of the many garden spaces along the Champs-Élysées credited to Jean-Charles Adolphe Alphand, an engineer who directed the construction of many Haussmann-era parks. Whether he actually designed it seems lost to history (on the internet, at least). I have read that the Valley was created for the Exposition Universelle of 1900, but perhaps it was the 1889 World’s Fair, as Alphand died in 1891. How Switzerland or a Swiss exhibit comes into it is also not really clear.

The little park is now called the Garden of New France because of nearby Place du Canada. At least half its 1.7 acres are above the valley garden, level with the street — an ordinary assortment of shrubs, grass, and gravel paths.

You can click on ‘Continue reading’ below to scroll through more (and larger) images.

*Including maple trees, bamboo, wavy leaf silktassel, Mexican orange, viburnum, nandina, lilac, jasmine, white hibiscus, ferns, ivy, roses, daylilies, smooth hydrangea, smokebush, Japanese anemones, and Persicaria ‘Red Dragon’.

Continue reading “La Vallée Suisse, Paris”

Marais garden, Paris

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The “hidden garden” of  the Musée des Archives Nationale in early September.

A quiet place to retreat to while exploring the popular Marais section of Paris.

I particularly liked the row of wire grid columns just inside the entrance from Rue des Quatre-Fils.  They enclosed upright pyracantha bushes and were underplanted with fountain grass.

Pont des Arts, Paris

Pont des Arts, Paris, Sept 2015, enclos*ure

This summer, the much put-upon (literally) pedestrian bridge between the Left and Right Banks of the Seine had a new look. These pictures were taken in early September.

For some years now, tourists have been attaching “lovelocks” to the open iron railings. Their collective weight has threatened the structural integrity of the bridge, and the authorities have removed them more than once.

Pont des Arts 6, Paris, Sept 2015, enclos*ure

Now the sides have been removed again and replaced by boards covered with fake printed graffiti — not better looking, but lighter.

The boards were said to be scheduled to be replaced with plexiglass sometime this month.

Pont des Arts 4, Paris, Sept 2015, enclos*ure
The railings at the entrances to the bridge have been left alone for now.

Pont des Arts 8, Paris, Sept 2015, enclos*ure

Pont des Arts 7, Paris, Sept 2015, enclos*ure
“Graffiti can’t be stopped.”